Photo courtesy of Franklin Industries

Step 1: Preparation of Wood Surfaces

There was a time when household bleach and TSP were used to clean wood and kill any existing mildew.  While this worked fairly well, if the bleach was not completely gotten out of the wood prior to staining, it could cause the finish to fail prematurely.

Timber Prep is now used instead. It cleans the wood the same as the bleach/TSP cocktail did, and it has the added benefit of pH balancing the wood without the worry of premature failure. 

A 5 gallon pail will cover approximately 5000 square feet, which makes it an inexpensive pre-finish step for wood finishing.

To Apply Timber Prep:
 
Spray on and wait approximately 45 minutes.  The area should remain wet for the full 45 minutes.  If any area appears to be drying, spray on more Timber Prep or simply mist with water.

Where there is a lot of dirt or sun damage, increase the mixture strength and lightly scrub the area.  Note:  Timber Prep will not remove the black caused by mildew and fungus! To remove the black will require sanding them out.

After 45 minutes, wash down the wood thorougly, making sure you include the log ends, corners and horizontal lines between the log rows.

The application of the finish can usually be started the next day, depending on the weather.

Photo courtesy of Franklin Industries

Nature’s Edge Exterior Wood Finish is designed as a three coat system, with two tinted (color) coats and one clear top coat.  Each coat is applied as a flood coat, meaning the wood drinks all it can with each coat.  A little finish running down the log prior to back brushing lets you know that the wood has absorbed as much as it can for maximum UV protection. It is best if one person applies the finish and a second person follows along and back brushes out the excess.

For best results, Nature’s Edge should be applied with an airless sprayer and the back brushing done with good quality brushes.  Poor quality brushes will leave brush hairs, making it harder to get the desired results.

The correct tip will spray on a vertical beam of approximately six to eight inches.  The actual tip number to use varies depending on the sprayer used.  Generally speaking, a #11 or #13 tip has shown to give good results, but it is best to discuss this with the company you are purchasing/renting the sprayer from.  Note: If a brush is used to apply the finish, an extra coat of both the color and clear should be applied to equal the amount of finish the sprayer would put on.

Coverage will vary depending on the coarseness of the wood.  For most logs, expect between 300 to 350 square feet per gallon on average for the three coats.  For rough siding, expect approximately one half or less coverage of that absorbed by logs.

It works best for applicators to do approximately 100 square feet at a time, applying from the bottom up.  Starting at the bottom results in any excess  finish running onto already wet logs, eliminating permanent drip marks appearing in the wood below.

Once the finish has been applied, back brushing should begin after waiting between two and six minutes, depending on the ambient and log temperatures.  Back brushing involves lightly brushing out the drip lines and smoothing out any excess product that settles, especially on the lower edges of the logs or around any checks (cracks in the wood). In warmer temperatures the wait time will be closer to two minutes, and in colder temperatures it will be closer to six minutes.

Because waterborne wood finishes require water to move the resins into the wood, it is important to observe the temperature range to ensure that the water does not evaporate prematurely during the application process.

Photo courtesy of A.R.K Log Crafters

For Fascia, Board and Baton, Beveled Siding and Soffits    

The two color coats can be applied on the wood before it is installed on the home.

Product can be applied with a sprayer or brush (or a roller for rough finished wood).

If the wood is 1” or less in thickness, put a coat on the back of the wood first, as this will minimize cupping of the wood.  You do not have to wait for it to dry before applying the first coat on the front, but be sure to use some form of lathing to minimize sticking.

Drying Times

Apply the first coat as described above.

Apply successive coats as described above, once the previous coat is either dry or tacky (a little sticky but no product comes off on your fingers when touched).

Maintenance - Exterior

As described above, the initial application is a three coat process.  The first two coats of finish are color coats and, like the pigment in your arm (figuratively speaking), provide the UV protection.  The third coat is like suntan lotion.  In time, the third coat will burn off, exposing the pigment which protects your home from going grey.  After the second year, the finish should be inspected on a yearly basis to see if a maintenance coat is needed.  Note: Because it is a clear maintenance coat system, only the side of the home requiring it will have to be done.

Application of Exterior Maintenance Coats

Wash down the house with either water or a diluted solution of Timber Prep to clean off any dirt that has accumulated.

Apply a clear maintenance coat the next day.

Note: Whatever dirt or mildew/fungus/algae is left on the wood will show up through the finish.

Clean up

All Nature’s Edge products are water carried products, and as such, they are easily cleaned up with soap and water when wet, with a final rinse of clear water.

Interior

As there is less UV impact on the interior of the home, a third coat is not required, nor are maintenance coats. Other than that, the application instructions for the interior are the same as for the exterior.

You can choose to use clear Nature’s Edge, or you can add any color of your choice.

Photo courtesy of Franklin Industries